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Tolox.
The
municipality of Tolox belongs to the Guadalhorce valley region
for administrative purposes but it is also geographically
linked to the Ronda highlands, especially to the Sierra de
las Nieves Natural Park. This area bestows upon this municipality
some of the most beautiful scenery, between Puerto de los
Pilones and the La Torrecilla peak (1,919 metres), to be found
in the entire province of Málaga. When it is covered
with snow, as it is for only a few weeks per year, the setting
increases in beauty and is simply spectacular.
A
little farther north, at Cañada de las Carnicerías
and on the River Los Horjacos, the mountain range exhibits
some imposing cliffs, but despite their steepness, small pine
groves seem to defy the laws of gravity by growing on them.
The terrain then begins to smooth out and olive trees and
grain fields begin to appear. These make way, down on the
banks of the River Grande, for numerous fruit orchards and
vegetable gardens.
The first human settlement in this area dates back to the
Neolithic period, judging from the remains (three decorated
ceramic vases) that have been in the Cueva de la Tinaja (La
Tinaja cave) near Peñón de los Horcajos, some
five kilometres from the modern village. As for remains from
the Roman era, a tombstone from the grave of a child has been
found and in the early twentieth century, several inscriptions
were found embedded in the walls of the church.
The
first accounts of Tolox from the Islamic period refer to the
occupation of its ancient castle by the Muladí chieftain
Omar Ben Hafsun in the year 833. Upon his death the fortress
was inherited by one of his sons, Soleiman, who in 921 was
defeated by Abderramán III, whose troops destroyed
the castle. When the village surrendered to the Christian
troops in 1485, the fortress was rebuilt but in 1498 it was
again levelled.
This locality, along with Monda, was granted as a feudal holding
to the Marquise of Villena and Duke of Escalona in 1509. The
repressive work of the Inquisition was noted in Tolox, and
in 1560 it publicly repressed the local mayor because the
villagers were singing and dancing in the Arabic manner during
some family celebrations. After the Morisco uprising and their
expulsion, the municipal territory was practically unpopulated
until Old Christians arrived from Castile and Galicia in the
time of Felipe II.
Outstandings
Visits:
The visitor will realise the moment he arrives in the village
that he is entering a locality with a strong Moorish atmosphere,
with narrow and irregular streets and houses with perennially
white façades against which brilliantly coloured flowers
stand out. No one should fail to tour the Rinconada del Castillo
neighbourhood, where the Arabic touch is accentuated to the
point of becoming perfectly recognisable.
The Murallas del Castillo (Castle Walls) of Tolox, whose construction
is attributed to the Phoenicians, are the most ancient display
of architecture in this locality. The Romans used the castle
during their stay in the area, and in the year 883 it was
occupied by the rebel Omar Ben Hafsun who rebuilt it and made
it into one of his most secure defences in the region. It
had practically disappeared by the end of the fifteenth century;
only one section of walls and a passageway are preserved from
the ancient fortress. The picturesque neighbourhood of Rinconada
del Castillo grew up around the space it had occupied.
The
iglesia de San Miguel (San Miguel church) was completed in
the early sixteenth century, and it was in this church that
the Christians took refuge during the Morisco uprising of
1568. After it had been set afire it was rebuilt in 1577 by
the master builder of the Málaga Cathedral, Diego de
Vergara. He ordered the levelling of the walls of the main
altar, which had been greatly damaged by the fire. In 1632
the church again had to be restored. It consists of three
naves separated by semicircular arches that rest on quadrangular
pillars.
The roof of the main altar chapel, the choir room and the
side chapels, with hemispherical vaults, are from the seventeenth
century. In the interior are three paintings from the eighteenth
century depicting the Betrothal of the Virgin, the Epiphany
and the Worship by the Shepherds, works attributed to Diego
de la Cerda. The square-based tower is at the front of the
Evangel Side nave and seems to have been built over the minaret
of the former mosque.
The Museo de Artes Populares (Museum of Popular Art) at Calle
Encina 54 (Casa de la Cultura, or House of Culture) is a museum
whose theme is nineteenth century life. There are three large
rooms on display that recreate the life of a family: the kitchen,
with old utensils; the bedroom, with a wooden bed, an iron
cradle, a jewellery box and even a missal from 1864, and a
room devoted to farm gear and to some of the parts from the
last olive oil mill that was in operation in Tolox. We also
have a display of photographs from the fifties.
The
ermita de San Roque (hermitage of San Roque, patron saint
of the village) is three kilometres from the village. It is
a modern structure, from the 1980’s, and architecturally very
simple, but the site affords a splendid view of the area.
The Balneario de Fuente Amargosa (Fuente Amargosa spa, Telephone:
952487 091) makes use of a spring with curative waters that
are especially recommended for asthma and bronchitis. Its
water was declared to be for public use in 1871 and its present
hotel has a capacity of 88 people. Lagartijo and Miguel Primo
de Rivera have passed through here, among other well-known
persons.
The Casa de la Inquisición (House of the Inquisition)
and the Casa del Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor (Hidalgo
Fernández de Villamor house) are of architectural interest.
The former is from the sixteenth or early seventeenth century
and displays a brick façade framed by pilasters, and
the latter is from the sixteenth century and has a whitewashed
façade notable for its artistic grillwork.
How
to Get There:
Take the A-357 to Cártama from Málaga. About
two kilometres past that village you must turn onto the A-355
in the direction of Coín and continue by way of the
A-366 in the direction of Alozaina. Four kilometres short
of Alozaina you will see the signs for the road that leads
to Tolox.
Interesting
Facts:
Surface Area: 95 square kilometres
Population: about 2,300
What the natives are called: Toloxeños
Monuments: the Murallas del Castillo (walls of the Castle),
San Miguel church, Casa Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares
(Popular Arts and Traditions House Museum), San Roque hermitage,
Fuente Amargosa spa, Casa de la Inquisición (Inquisition
House), Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor house, and the
Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park
Geographical Location: in the Guadalhorce valley region. The
village is 315 metres above sea level, and is 52 kilometres
from Ronda and 57 from the city of Málaga. The average
precipitation in the area is 750 litres per square metre and
the average annual temperature is 17º C.
Tourist Information: Casa de la Cultura, Calle Encina 54 (29109).
Telephone: 952 487 333; Fax: 952 487 108