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Ronda,
eternal seduction.
THEY
SAY THAT IT IS LAND TO DREAM OF, BUT RATHER, IT IS THE BELOVED
CITY, BECAUSE EACH VISITOR THAT DISCOVERS IT ENDS UP AS ANOTHER
ADMIRER OF ITS ETERNAL SEDUCTION, THUS IT IS NOR SURPRISING
THAT ORSON WELLES WISHED TO REST IN THE LAND THAT HE LOVED
BEST.
Ronda,
in spite of being surrounded by the cragged mountain range
that bears its name, lies on a large plateau, clearly defining
the high and low Andalusia. The city overlooks, to the southwest,
El Tajo (The Gorge), a natural gorge excavated over the years
by the river Guadalevin, reaching 180 metres in the deepest
part. This cut has split Ronda in two, but at the same time
it has joined it, it has made it unique and has also made
it known worldwide as one of the symbols of Andalusia. This
monumental city has been coveted throughout history by different
cultures. In prehistoric times it was already a settlement,
according to the remains found in the area, as well as cave
paintings discovered in the Pileta cave, one of the best-preserved
in the world. Bust Ronda did not become a trully Iberian city
until its contact with the Phoenicians and the Creeks, in
the last millennium before Christ.
The Celts settled later, founding Acinipo (the Old Ronda)
and Arunda (present day Ronda), although the town acquired
true importance under the Romans. Back then, it was the best
road connecting the province of Málaga with Seville,
but in turn it connected Algeciras (Cádiz) with Málaga.
Acinipo was more important back then than Arunda, although
they were often mistaken for each other and there was a fierce
competition between them. At the end, Acinipo was abandoned
and Arunda began to write the pages of history on its own.
The most flourishing period came with the Arabs, who settled
throughout the region and shaped the current mountain range.
The urban layout of the city was the work of these inhabitants,
the main nucleus of which was the castle, surrounded by a
neighbourhood called Izna Rond Onda, which means Castle of
the Laurel. For many years, Ronda was a unique point of Arab
resistance, due to its location and its impenetrable walls.
But in May 1485, the troops of the Catholic Monarchs, led
by the Prince Don Fernando, conquered it.
Bur Ronda has entered Spain's contemporary history as being
the seat, in January 1918, of the Andalusian Congress, where
the foundations of the autonomy of Andalusia were laid and
the symbols of the region were established such as the flag
(the green of Islam and the white of peace, and the parliament)
and its hymn, composed by the Notary born in Casares, Blas
Imfante.
Ronda
and its neighbourhoods
Ronda's attractions are located in three different areas.
Outside of the walls is the San Francisco neighbourhood, where
the first inhabitans settled. The Almocabar and the Carlos
V doors in the old walled enclosure, mark the beginning of
the city, where the city's historical masterpices are found.
Suddenly, we run into the church, fortress of the Holy Spirit
that was built in the times of the Catholic Monarchs.
From here onwards, we will see a diversity of silent witnesses
of past civilisations, such as the Santa María La Mayor
church, which in Mozarab times was a mosque. Close by is the
Town Hall building and the Mondragón Palace, seat of
governors and kings and built by King Abomelic in 1314.
Near this is the Exijara door, which leads to the Jewish Quarter.
Towards the New Bridge we find the San Sebastian minaret,
from Ronda's Nazri period, and the Arab baths, the best preserved
of Spain, dating back to the 13th century.
Heading towards the city's greatest attraction, The Gorge
( El Tajo), we find the Felipe V door, the Arab bridge and
the Old Bridge, from where we see the Fountain of the Eight
Spouts and the Padre Jesús Church. Close to the bridge
is the Marques de Salvatierra palace and the Moorish King's
House, both buildings from the 18th century. We then find
the symbol of Ronda, the New Bridge (Puente Nuevo), where
we will be awed by the enormity of the construction, which
dates back to the 18th century. It took 42 years to build
and it sits on the foundations of an old bridge that only
stood for 5 years.
The architect, Juan Martín Aldehuela, also designed
the bullring (year 1785), on the other side of the Gorge,
in the area known as Mercadillo, which is the third part of
the city, with a more modern look. This bullring is the largest
of Spain, with 66 metres diameter, and is owned by the Real
Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda, the first created
in Spain and founded in 1572 by Felipe II. This ring has produced
mythical bullfighters such as Pedro Romero, in whose honour
the beautiful Goyesca bullfight is held every year.
Ronda
and its lovers.
The beauty of its landscapes and its urban areas, its romantic
spell, due to its legends and romances of Arabs bandits and
bullfighters, have made Ronda a meeting point of travellers,
artists and writers. Among these travellers we must mention
Rainer Maria Rilke, Juan Ramón Jiménez, Hemmingway,
Cernuda... If its visitors were important, so were many who
were born in Ronda, sych as Vicente Espinel, Rios Rosas, Giner
de los Rios, Pedro Romero and el Niño de la Palma.
But if anyone passionately loved everything about Ronda, that
was Orson Welles. The great American actor and filmmaker travelled
many times to Ronda to immerse himself in the bullfighting
ambience, which he never could forget. After Welle's death,
his daugthter expressed his wish to be buried in the land
that so captivated him. In 1986, the ashes of this American
genius were deposited in the San Cayetano property, owned
by the Ordoñez family.
The truth is that anyone who visits the city will end up falling
in love with its beauty, and those who are familiar with it,
know that the more you contemplate it, the more it attracts,
because the beauty of seduction of Ronda is eternal.
Useful
information Basic data
Size: 477.50 Km²
Population: Approx. 40,000
Residents known as: Rondeños
Monuments: Plaza de Toros, Historic centre, the Gorge, Ruins
of Acinipo.
Geographical situation: Capital of the Ronda Mountains region,
made up of 27 municipalities, at 744 metres above sea level.
Ronda is the capital of the Serrania (Mountain range) comprising
27 municipalities that cover an area of 1,500 square kilometres
and with a population of about 65,000, including the almost
40,000 that live in Ronda itself. There are various ways to
get there from Malaga, the most direct route being along the
Costa del Sol to San Pedro Alcántara, then turning
up on the Ronda road, a total distance of 110 kilometres.
The well-surfaced but winding road reaches a height of 744
metres above sea level to take us to the town. Another road
goes through Yunquera and El Burgo, shorter at 96 kilometres
from Malaga, while the longest way is by the new Cártama
road that brings us first to Ardales, turning off before reaching
Campillos to get to Ronda, the distance being 122 kilometres.
Although longer, this is an excellent road.
Places
to be visited
Ruins of Acinipo
There are a number of different routes one can take to see
the town, one good way to begin being a trip through the Ruins
of Acinipo or Ronda La Vieja (Old Ronda). Acinipo became one
of the most important towns in Bética and Arunda, situated
20 kilometres from the present town on the Seville road. The
ruins are on a plateau of 980 metres high, and are easily
spotted for the large stone blocks and the remains of construction
work on the site. The theatre is in a good state of conservation,
and its size gives us some idea of how big this Roman city
was. Coins, inscriptions and various architectural elements
have been found in and around the site.
Urban and monumental Ronda
The town has a number of different areas, easily distinguished
one from the other. The town centre is made up of Las Imágenes,
the Puente Nuevo and the area known as La Ciudad, or the ancient
Medina, the Moorish market area. From the historic point of
view, this is the most important area of the town. The second
area is the San Francisco barrio, and the third area is the
Mercadillo, on the other side of the river Guadalevín,
where an industrial estate has been built recently. Three
bridges were built over this river, the two oldest being in
the lower part of the river, and the third being built at
the end of the 18th century.
The Lara Museum
This museum of art and objects is situated in the Casa Palacio
de los Condes de La Conquista, (on calle Armiñán),
which has recuperated its old aristocratic style on being
converted into one of the most interesting museums in the
province. On show here are more than 2,000 pieces from the
worlds of communication, art, science, archaeology and popular
arts. There are a total of nine collections in the museum.
Religious architecture Ronda
has a large number of religious buildings, the most interesting
being the 15th and early 16th century churches of Nuestra
Señora de Gracia and Espíritu Santo, the building
of which was ordered by the Catholic Monarchs on the ground
that the octagonal square used by the Catholic defence forces
had been. One of the oldest of the town’s religious buildings
is the Church of the Santa María de la Encarnación
la Mayor. These are only a few of the 20 religious buildings
– mostly churches and convents – to be found in Ronda.
Church of the Espíritu Santo
Ronda was conquered by the Catholic Monarchs on May 22nd,
1485, and the Church of the Espíritu Santo was one
of the first to be built to cater for the spiritual needs
of the new Christian population, and those who would be converted.
It was named for the day on which the town was captured, Pascua
del Espíritu Santo, and built on the ruins of an old
mosque between the end of the 15th century and the beginning
of the 16th century. The style is transitional Gothic-Renaissance.
It was made a parish in 1534, and while work was being carried
out on the Colegiata de Santa María de la Encarnación,
it fulfilled the function of the canonical college.
The church is built of stone in a single nave, with a raised
choir. The nave is divided into three sections, each vaulted
in the shape of the cross. There are rectangular chapels off
the third section of the nave, with another chapel on the
other side of the central nave, separated by semicircular
arches, the ceilings again vaulted in the shape of the cross.
A third chapel leads to the exterior.
The entrance to the main chapel is through a semicircular
triumphal arch supported by large pillars, while the ceiling
is an octagonal-shaped Baroque vault with an eight-point star
in the centre. A Baroque altarpiece sits in the wall, along
with a painting from the late 17th century Seville School.
The theme is the Holy Spirit, with the apostles receiving
the gift of speech in different languages in order to preach
the work of God all over the world. Beneath this there is
a Virgen de la Antigua, a 19th century copy. Over the altar
there are three heraldic stone shapes, two of them from the
time of Fray Bernardo Manrique (1541-1564), then bishop, and
the other showing the principal coat-of-arms of Asturias.
There are two windows in the high part of the walls, and a
door that leads to the sacristy. The
sacristy houses two important works: a Saint Joseph with the
Child Jesus and Saint Ann with the Virgin, both done in the
final third of the 17th century by painters closely associated
with the painter Murillo. The exterior presents a fortified
appearance common at the time, with buttresses complementing
the interior arches of the nave. On both sides are the chapels
in the shape of the cross, lower than the central nave. The
steeple is made in two storeys with a bell tower, and later
decorative additions in the Baroque style.
The doorway is simple, framed in two large buttresses with
pinnacles. It has a semicircular archway with the only elements
in the church of Mudejar design on it. Over the arch is a
niche holding the dove of the Holy Spirit. There is an arched
window that is reminiscent of the Gothic style, and the façade
has a pediment on its central part. At the moment the gold
and silverwork, liturgical costumes and documents relating
the church are on exhibition in different parts of the building.
The Bandolero Museum. This museum is situated a late 19th
century house in the historic centre of the town, and within
150 metres of it one can find almost all the best-known monuments
in Ronda. C/Armiñán, 65. Tel: 952 877 785.
CRAFTS:
Ronda is famous worldwide for its wrought iron, the manufacturing
of unique furniture, ceramic and leather articles.
GASTRONOMY:
Among the most typical dishes are: Ronda style omelette, yemas
del tajo, black pudding and chorizo; beans; migas with chorizo;
almond and artichoke soup; mountain style gazpacho; pork loin
filled with pine nuts; lamb cochifrito; Ronda style rabbit,
and for dessert, almond pestiños and sweets made by
the Carmelite and Franciscan nuns.
WHERE TO EAT:
Restaurante Pedro Romero. One of Ronda’s classic restaurtants.
Spacious, with a Spanish wine cellar. C/. Virgen de la Paz,
18. Tel: 952 871 061 Fax: 952 871 061.
Restaurante Tragabuches. Creative Andalusian cooking. C/José
Aparicio, 1. 952 190 291.
Asador-Restaurante Casa Santa Pola. Specialising in meats,
roasts, suckling pig and lamb in a wood oven. C/Santo Domingo,
s/n. Tel: 952 879 208. Fax 952 879 328
Restaurante del Escudero. Paseo Blas Infante, s/n. Tel: 952
871 367.
Restaurante Sol y Sombra. C/Virgen de la Paz, 26. Tel: 952
187 176.
Restaurante Jerez. Paseo Blas Infante, 2. Tel: 952 872 098.
Internet
Restaurante Duquesa de Parcent. C/Tenorio, 12. Tel: 952 190
835.
Restaurante Alhambra. C/Pedro Romero, 9. Tel: 952 879 934.
Restaurante Alavera. C/San Miguel, s/n. Tel: 952 879 143.
Restaurante Don Javier. C/Virgen de la Paz, 7. Tel: 952 872
020.
Restaurante Cervecería Camelot. C/Sevilla, 45. Tel:
952 879 312.
Bar-Restaurante La Venta. Ctra. El Burgo, Km.4. Tel: 952 877
929.
Bar-Restaurante El Torero. C/Nueva, 8. Tel: 952 877 169.
Hnos.Pérez. Specialising in hot tapas and churros.
C/Espinillos, 14.Tel: 952 871 147.
WHERE TO SLEEP:
Hotel Husa Reina Victoria (4*). Dr. Fleming, 25. Tel: 952
871 240.
Hotel Maestranza (4*). C/Virgen de la Paz, 24. Tel: 952 187
072.
Parador Nacional de Turismo (4*). Plaza de España,
s/n. Tel: 952 877 500.
Hotel San Gabriel. C/José María Holgado, 19.
Tel: 952 190 392.
Hotel La Española (3*). C/José Aparicio 3 and
5. Tel: 952 871 051.
Hotel Don Javier (3*). C/José Aparicio, 6. Tel: 952
872 020.
Hotel Royal (2*). C/Virgen de la Paz, 42. Tel: 952 871 141.
Hotel El Horcajo (3*). Ctra. Ronda-Zahara de la Sierra, s/n.
Tel: 952 184 080.
Hotel Alavera (2*). C/San Miguel, s/n. Tel: 952 879 143.
Hostal Andalucía. Avda. Martínez Astein, 19.
Teléfono 952 875 450.
Hostal Fuente de la Higuera. Partido de los Frontones. Tel:
952 114 355.
Hostal Rondasol. C/Almendra, 11. Tel: 952 874 497.
Pensión La Purísima. C/Sevilla, 10. Tel: 952
871 050.
Camping El Sur. Ctra. Algeciras, Km.1,5. Tel: 952 875 939.
Camping El Abogao. Ctra. Campillos, Km.5. Tel: 952 875 844.
POPULAR
FESTIVITIES: The most important dates are: in April, Holy
Week; on the 20th May, the May Fair; and in September, Festivities
of Pedro Romero, traditional Goyesca Bullfight.
FURTHER
INFORMATION: Ronda municipal tourism office: Paseo de Blas
Infante, s/n. Tlf: 952 187 119. Andalusian Tourism Office,
Plaza de España, 9. Tlf: 952 871 272.