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Ojén,
between green and blue.
AT
PRESENT THE VILLAGE OF OJÉN REPRESENTS THE SURVIVAL
OF THAT AUTOCHTHONOUS AMID THE COSMOPOLITANISM OF THE COSTA
DEL SOL. OJÉN IS A STEP AWAY FROM THE BLUE MEDITERRANEAN
AND THE GREEN OF THE SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES, WHICH IT GUARDS
AS JEALOUSLY AS THE VILLAGE SECRET: ITS LIQUOR.
We
travel along the road that leads to the village of Ojén
from the old road that links with Marbella.
Soon we will want to stop the car to capture the image. A
cubic and white spot sunk amongst a green thickness where
the true flavour of the villages of Andalusia is still kept.
Once inside its maze of streets of Moorish origin, we can
seek the vantage point that situates us facing the Mediterranean
and the diamond of the Costa del Sol, Marbella.Behind us,
an extensive greenness which, along with Sierra Blanca, is
the portico of the Sierra de las Nieves, a protected natural
park which was declared Reserve of the Biosphere. To the east,
the Sierra Alpujata claims our attention, with its jagged
slopes.
Ojén
in History
This village of the province of Málaga contains not
only a beautiful landscape, but also some unusual facts. There
are references of primitive settlements in this area from
the Middle Palaeolithic and the Neolithic, marks of which
were found in the Cueva de Pecho Redondo. The Costa del Sol
was densely populated in Roman times, thus it is thought that
in this area there were livestock and agricultural exploitations
that provided for Marbella.
But Ojén entered the pages of history for the first
time through the "Chronicle of the Feats of the Cordovan
Emirs". This text tells of the battles of Abderraman
III againts the Málaga Renegades concentrated in Bobastro
and led by Omar Ben Hafsun. These rebels held fierce battles
on different fronts of the province of Mñálaga
during the 10th Century. One of the battles took place by
the walls of the Castle of Hoxán (rough place in Arabic),
then Ojén.
Victory led the caliph to order a mosque built in this area,
at present where the parish church stands.
Once
Christianised, in 1569, another Mozarab rebellion set fire
to the castle, the remains of which can barely be seen above
the village. According to the British chronicler Francis Carter
(1722), Ojén is "a village pleasant, simple people,
who do not know tea or coffee, but who enjoy goat's milk in
their clay cups". What this untiring traveller did not
know was, that a century later, its inhabitants would begin
to enjoy one of the most famous liquors of Spain, the Aguardiente
de Ojén.
Half
a glass of Ojén
It could be that to drink Ojén in full would be counterproductive,
because the recomended dose was "half a cup.../ of Ojén".
After setting music to this cadence of words, many Spaniards
knocked on the doors of houses with this tune, as the Aguardiente
de Ojén soon became a true national phenomenon. So
much so, that the Málaga painter Pablo Ruíz
Picasso immortalised it in one of his most Spanish paintings.
The still life comprises a bottle of that much appreciated
liquor on which the word "Ojén" can be read,
three glasses, a section of the Barcelona newspaper La Publicidad,
an inkwell, a fragment of a letter and a ticket for a bullfight
with the words "sol y sombra" (sun and shade) with
the colours of the Spanish flag. Seemingly, this was a moment
when Picasso wrote to his parents who were in Barcelona from
a café while he had half, one, two or three glasses
of this anis; but this is a detail that is only supposed.
The
creator of such famous alcoholic potion was the local Pedro
Morales. Around 1830 he founded in his village a small factory
in which only Ojén grapes were used. The liquor, flavoured
with local herbs, was heated with juniper wood on a still.
When Pedro Morales died, his son continued with the family
secret until his death, as he took with him the formula, not
leaving it even to his closest family. Later, in 1969, Juan
Espada tried to reactivate the factory after analy-sing one
of the old bottles. But the result did not achieve the expected
quality or flavour, thus the distillery closed for good in
1979.
At present, it holds the Museo del Vino Malaga where, in addition
to contemplating the old labels and bottles, the original
still is kept. The history and flavour of the different wines
of the province can also be found here.
Juanar,
palace of kings
When visiting the village of Ojén one cannot help but
see some indication that leads us to the Refugio de Juanar,
in the heart of the game preserve.
The palace was built by the Marqués de Larios in 1906
as a shelter for hunters, thus began the fame of a unique
place in the middle of nature.
In 1965 it became a Parador Nacional de Turismo; although
today is exploited by a local cooperative. Among its most
famous guests are the king of Spain Alfonso XIII or the ex-president
of France and general in World War II Charles de Gaulle, who
wrote his memoirs here Its attraction lies in the natural
surroundings, the cooking of game, the outdoor activities
and total tranquillity. The road that leads there continues
up to the Juanar vantage point, presided by a Hispanic goat,
very common in the area, and the Cruz de Juanar. There is
a spectacular view from here over the western part of the
Costa del Sol and the foothills of the Sierra de las Nieves.
Basic
data
Size: 84.40 Km²
Population: Approx. 2,000
Residents known as: Ojenetos
Monuments: Church of the Encarnación, the Mill Museum,
the Los Chorros Fountain, the Caves of Ojén.
Geographical situation: Between the Sierra Blanca and Alpujata
mountains, 10 kilometres from Marbella and 65 from Malaga,
at 309 metres above sea level.
Tourist information: Town Hall, C/La Carrera, 5. 29610.
Phone: 952 881 003 Fax: 952 881 216
Places to be visited
Church of La Encarnación (16th century)
The church of the Encarnación was built over an old
mosque, the minaret of which survives as the present church
spire and bell-tower. Inside there is a single nave with a
beautifully decorated timber ceiling.
El Molino Museum (19th century)
This museum is situated on the site of the last aguardiente
factory in Ojén. The ancient mill can be worked by
waterpower or electricity, and produces one of the most valued
products of the locality: olive oil.
Fuente de los Chorros
This typical Andalusian fountain was erected as an emblem
of the village’s plentiful supply of water. The water flows
from here through channels that date from Moorish times to
irrigate the land below the village, just as it was used hundreds
of years ago.
Natural surroundings
The mountains around Ojén are heavily forested with
oak, pine, cork trees and an area of pinsapo trees, a rare
species of Mediterranean pine. There are numerous animal species
here too, such as the mountain goat, the royal eagle and the
royal owl. One can also see in the area genets, mongoose,
polecats and a host of smaller animals. The flora here is
especially rich too, with an abundance of medicinal plants,
herbs and wild flowers. Along the river Almadán and
in the area known as the Charco de las Viñas, one can
spot interesting reptiles and amphibians.
Museo del Vino (Wine Museum)
C/Carrera, 39. Open every day in summer from 11 to 3 p.m.
and 6 to 10 p.m., and in winter from 11 to 3 p.m. and 4 to
8 p.m. Tel: 952 881 453.
FIESTAS
The Feria in Ojén, in honour of its patron saint, San
Dionisio, takes place in October. This event is unique in
the way that all the activities, musical and otherwise, take
place on the streets and in the town square. Residents and
visitors alike gather in the square and dance to the music
of the orchestra in the open air. Another interesting festival
in the village is the Romería on May 1st, and on November
1st there is the traditional tostón and Romería
in the Cruz de "Juaná". Ojén is also
considered the capital of Flamenco music in the province of
Malaga, its annual Festival de Cante Flamenco taking place
in July and attracting the top Flamenco singers and musicians
from all over Spain.
GASTRONOMY
The gastronomy of the village is based on local produce such
as game, goat cheeses and milk products. Of special importance
are the soups, the rice and noodle dishes, the fish and the
delicious almond-flavoured gazpacho. Among the favoured game
dishes are rabbit in garlic and partridge. Pork products are
an essential part of the local cuisine, and there is a wide
variety of pastries made in the village.