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Macharaviaya.
The
small municipality of Macharaviaya exhibits a landscape that
is typical of the region to which it belongs but is without
remarkable contrasts in elevation, since the terrain is composed
of a succession of hills of similar altitude. In the absence
of the vineyards that disappeared with the phylloxera pest,
they are covered with pastures occasionally mixed with olive
trees.
This
is an area of pleasant geographic contours, but one that is
not without small ravines and canyons, and is the setting
for the village and its sub-district of Benaque, which is
barely three kilometres away. It is even smaller than Macharaviaya
but shares with it the same peaceful and old-fashioned ambience,
far from modern rush and bother.
Macharaviaya originated as an ancient Arabic farm community
and was founded as a royal burgh in 1572, taking the former
Arabic name of Machar Ibn Yahha (farmstead of the son of Yahha),
which is preserved today with practically the same pronunciation.
The expulsion of the Moors resulted in the depopulation of
the village, and it appears that unlike so many other villages
in the area, there was no fully developed programme of repopulation.
The
extended period of decadence experienced by Macharaviaya in
all aspects of life, particularly relating to population,
took an unexpected turn when the Gálvez family appeared
in the little community. They provided a surprising economic
stimulus in the eighteenth century. Throughout that century
and part of the next, the village enjoyed unaccustomed prosperity
and was visited by the most influential personalities in Málaga,
who came to Macharaviaya to establish ties with the Gálvez
family.
A new church was built over the former one during this period,
the Real Fábrica de Naipes (Royal Playing Card Factory)
and an Agricultural Bank were created and a potable water
distribution system was begun. This economic development financed
by the Gálvez family was so great that the village
began to also be called the “Little Madrid”. Although this
was without doubt an exaggerated nickname, it attests to the
economic good times of the period.
A
new period of decline began with the arrival of the phylloxera
pest, as in nearly all of La Axarquía, and the village
only began to emerge from it a few decades ago when it became
a refuge for numerous artists who chose it as a residence,
no doubt so they could devote themselves to their creative
work in complete peace and quiet. A stable residential tourism
industry has also been established that has contributed greatly
to restoring many of the old dwellings that had fallen into
disuse and disrepair.
Outstandings
Visits:
It is often said that modernity has not crossed the threshold
of Macharaviaya and that it is still as it was in the eighteenth
century. While this assertion is not totally correct-such
a thing would be impossible-it does contain much truth. The
streets are still cobblestone and care has been taken that
the façades of the houses do not display features that
are out of place, therefore the traditional architecture shows
up splendidly and is in perfect harmony with the irregular
street plan.
The first thing that a traveller will notice as he enters
the village is the quadrangular two-story brick monument which
commemorates the debt of the village to its benefactors, the
Gálvez family, as stated on the stone tablet from 1786.
Inside the village the San Jacinto church attracts attention.
It was built in the eighteenth century in the same place that
the first church had been built two centuries before, in 1505.
It has a Latin cross floor plan with a single nave that measures
36 metres long by 9 metres wide and has a barrel vault and
a graceful dome on the transept. The sober entrance to the
church, done in facing brick and very much in the style of
the era, consists of Corinthian columns under a divided pediment,
over which appears a royal coat of arms.
Next
to the church is the cemetery, which is the location of the
entrance to the church’s crypt. These premises occupy practically
the entire underground area of the church and house the tombs
of several members of the Gálvez family, who are represented
by marble sculptures in praying posture.
At the present time the old playing card factory is not exactly
a visually impressive piece of architecture (truth be told,
it never was) but it is an inseparable part of this village’s
history and its economic development. After his departure
for America José Gálvez opened new commercial
avenues in the New World, and thus the Playing Card Factory
of Macharaviaya reaffirmed the monopoly that the former owner
of the factory, Félix Solecio, held on the sale of
playing cards in the “Yndias” by the terms of a contract signed
in 1576. The factory produced 30,000 decks per year, which
were manufactured from a paper made in Benalmádena.
(Paper manufacturing requires a huge quantity of water, which
was very abundant in Benalmádena). Production stopped
in 1815 and the building, located at Calle Real de Málaga
15 to 23, was converted into dwellings.
In
the sub-district of Benaque, less than three kilometres from
Macharaviaya, the visitor can view the Nuestra Señora
de la Encarnación church. This is a sixteenth century
structure without garish decoration but rather with the authentic
flavour of the simplest Mudéjar style. It was erected
over a former mosque of which the minaret remains and is used
as a bell tower. It has been subjected to a number of modifications
since part of the roof collapsed in 1930. The house of the
poet Salvador Rueda, who originated the poetic movement known
as Modernism, can also be visited. In it is displayed a notable
legacy of the poet.
How
to Get There:
Go towards Motril on the Mediterranean Expressway (A-7; N-340)
and some five kilometres past the exit for Chilches take the
MA-176. This road leads directly to Macharaviaya, although
not in a straight line. .
Interesting
Facts:
Surface Area: 7.2 square kilometres
Population: about 370
What the natives are called: Macharatungos
Monuments: the Gálvez monument, San Jacinto church,
Fábrica de Naipes (old playing card factory), and the
Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación church (Benaque)
Geographical Location: in the La Axarquía region, 25
kilometres from Vélez Málaga and 27 from the
provincial capital. It is 240 metres above sea level, the
average rainfall in the area is 520 litres per square metre
and the average annual temperature is 17.5º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle Real, 12 (29791). Telephone:
952 400 042; Fax: 952 400 026