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Juzcar.
The
municipality of Júzcar is a long and narrow strip of
territory that adjoins the municipality of Ronda to the north,
and in the south descends to Estepona and Benahavís.
Its elongated shape allows for an enormous variety of scenery
formed by very high peaks (Benamahoma, El Castillejo, Jardón
and Jarastepar, the last of these being the highest in the
area at 1,425 metres), areas with quintessentially Mediterranean
vegetation, and last of all, dense and unusually lush pine
forests.
Although
the historical origin of this village is very uncertain it
is clear it was founded before the time of the Arabs, and
some link its origin to the mining activity of the Roman era.
Be that as it may, the locality fell into the hands of the
Christian troops in 1485. From that date, forward the Moors
were subjected to very strict rules and, as is well known,
ultimately rebelled in 1570, resulting in their expulsion
in 1609.
A very unusual personality, “El Tajarillo” entered the scene
in that era. A sort of forerunner of the nineteenth century
bandit, he refused to be driven out. He fled to the highlands
and perpetrated incessant acts of banditry as long as he could.
All that remains of him is his legend and a place called Paso
de Tarajillo (Tarajillo’s Pass), near a hut where it is said
he died in an accident.
Due
to its location in the Upper Genal area and its difficult
access from the exterior it doesn’t seem very logical that
Júzcar would have been industrialised before many other
Spanish cities, but such was the case. In 1726, construction
began on the first sheet tin factory in Spain, which began
operations in 1731 with no fewer than 200 workers on the payroll.
The factory was inaugurated with the pompous name of “La nunca
vista en España Real Fábrica de Hojalata y sus
adherentes, reinando los siempre invictos monarcas y Católicos
Reyes don Felipe V y doña Isabel de Farnesio” (The
Never-Before-Seen in Spain Royal Factory For the Manufacture
of Tin Sheeting and its By-Products, in the Reign of the Unvanquished
Catholic Monarchs Don Felipe V and Doña Isabel de Farnesio.)
It is documented that since, at that time, the process for
manufacturing tin sheeting was not known in Spain some 30
specialists from Germany, under the direction of the Swiss
engineers Pedro Mentón and Emérito Dupasquier,
came to the village. It is said-and this should be considered
anecdotal- that these engineers had to be smuggled out of
their own country in barrels since in order to prevent competition
they were prohibited from going abroad. Apparently, the factory
ceased operations during the War of Independence, and the
General Archives of Simancas preserves part of the first piece
of tin sheeting produced.
The
fact that in 1752 there were eight mill units in operation-and
continued operating until 1841-along with two tanneries attests
to the prosperity of Júzcar in the eighteenth century.
It is therefore not surprising that in this area there are
the ruins of six other villages, of whose abandonment there
are no reliable records. It is known, however, that Faraján
was administratively subordinate to Júzcar until 1873.
Outstandings
Visits:
Júzcar’s urban plan follows the usual pattern of the
highland villages except that here the slopes are so diabolically
steep that the traditional architecture, which is remarkable
for its irregular chimneys and roofs, has had to avail itself
of a thousand and one artifices in its efforts to tame such
extraordinary terrain, conferring an appearance that goes
beyond the merely picturesque.
The village’s most notable building is the Santa Catalina
church. It was built in the sixteenth century but later modified.
It has a single nave and a flat roof that shows part of an
ancient Mudéjar roof frame. The tower, called the “Torrichela”,
seems to have been one of the most original monuments in the
Genal valley, but it was completely destroyed by an earthquake
in 1650.
Only
some ruins remain of the once famous tin factory, including
a sober façade with pilasters and cornices that reflects
the era of its construction (eighteenth century). In the rear,
there is an arch that must have been the entrance to a small
chapel. The factory’s present external appearance is more
that of a convent structure than an operative factory and
its overgrown interior imparts an air of decadent nineteenth
century romanticism.
How
to Get There:
Whether you leave from the Costa del Sol or from Ronda you
must take the A-376 road. In the former case, get onto this
road from the AP-7 or N-340 expressway at San Pedro de Alcántara.
About ten kilometres before getting to Ronda turn to the left
onto the MA-525, and you will arrive at Júzcar after
passing through Cartajima. If you leave from Ronda, take the
aforementioned A-376 and likewise the MA-525, which passes
through Cartajima and Júzcar.
Interesting
Facts:
Surface Area: 34 square kilometres
Population: a little over 200
What the natives are called: Juzcareños
Monuments: the Santa Catalina church and the ruins of the
Fábrica de Hojalata (tin factory)
Geographical Location: in the upper Genal region of the Ronda
highlands. The village sits at more than 620 metres above
sea level and is 22 kilometres from Ronda and 113 from the
provincial capital. The area records an average annual rainfall
of more than 1,100 litres per square metre and the average
temperature is about 14º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle José Antonio,
1 (29462). Telephone: 952 183 500; Fax: 952 183 644