IN THE FOOTHILLS OF THE SERRANIA DE RONDA MOUNTAINS, BURIED DEEP INSIDE THE SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES NATURAL PARK, ISTAN STANDS OUT. THIS BEAUTIFUL MOORISH TOWN RAISES ITS EYES TO THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA AND ZEALOUSLY GUARDS THE DELIGHTFUL ENCHANTMENT OF ANDALUSIA'S WHITE VILLAGES.

A walking around Istán takes one back to Al-andalus. Its labyrinthine urban layout tangled up with narrow, steep alleys and flanked by unpolluted whitewashed houeses brings with it the Arabic flavour of other times.
Some say Istán was not born in itself but in its surroundings, which were already dwelled at the time of the Cordovan Caliphate, when revolutionary Omar Ben Hafsun rebelled against the Umayyad in 896. Later on, halfway through the 15th century, Istán was officially founded as a village in its current emplacement. Istán, meaning "higher", is the product of a flight, a battle, a legend.

The subsequent expulsion of the Moorish put an end to an era and it came as a terrible blow for one of the richest places in the region (thanks to silk and raisin export) Istán was finally repopulated with families from Murcia. These introduced the "panocho" dialect, which has given name to Istán's inhabitants ever since.

Religious legacy
Istán's most valuable building is the Church of San Miguel, erected in the 16th century on the orders of the Archbishop of Seville, Diego de Deza. This parish church dedicated to the town's patron saint, consists of a single rectangular nave with a wooden framework. On the outside, its facade stands out, as well as the odd angular double-bodied steeple - where the church bells are.
Other singular buildings are the cave which houses the "Youth House", the public washing area and the Arab Tower, which was once part of the old fortress and is now located on the highest point of the village.

A peculiar feature of Istán is the preservation of its Via Crucis (Way of the Cross). The path is marked with small and simple wooden crosses, embedded in the cavities of the houses' different facades.
Water is an essential part of Istán's life and fountains are one of its freshest expressions. These drinking water spouts rise strategically throughout the entire region and are characterised by their blue and white tiles, which illustrate representative scenes. Moorish irrigation channels are also one of the essential and liquid elements of Istán. They go through the town and branch out to reach gardens and plots. A water flow murmur emanating from the channels accompanies the visitor along the streets, making his walk more enjoyable and pleasant.

Natural heritage
If there is something which ennobles Istán is the great natural environment by which it is surrounded. One of its symbols is the so-called "Holy Chestnut Tree", a gigantic 44-foot perimeter tree of more than 1000 years of age which has been declared "Natural Monument" by the government of Andalusia. Unfortunately, it is no longer accessible.
Thanks to the lookout points (miradores) of the region, one can admire the majesty of the environment: the Mirador del Aufaifo, with its comforting views on Rio Molinos; the Mirador de las Herrizas, located on the top of the hill above Rio Verde's reservoir; the Mirador del Tajo Banderas -also close to the reservoir-, which points to the mountain ranges guarding and protecting the town of Istán, or the Mirador de El Peñón, whose location draws to the crossroads of Río Molinos and Río Verde.

From the Saint Michael's Chapel -a church dug out of a cave and situated just over one mile away from the urban area- one can also obtain an excellent outlook of the Strait of Gibraltar and the Sierra de las Nieves Mountains: a unique sight on bright days. The fast-flowing source of the Rio Verde river, the cork oaks in Bornoque Mountain, the Las Cañas stream, the Concha peak and, of course, the Sierra de las Nieves Mountain. Nature rises here as insurgently as the Moorish did more than 500 years ago. Istán, located within this environment, looks over from the heights on this incredible scenery.

Useful information
How to get there: From Marbella, there is a diversion route to Istán.Basic data:
Size: 99,50 Km²
Population: 2,000
Residents known as: Panochos
Monuments: Church (XVI century), public washing area, Moorish tower and natural surroundings.
Geographical situation: Between the Ronda Mountains and the Costa del Sol, 77 kilometres from Malaga at 200 metres above sea level.
Tourist information: Town Hall, C/Empedrada, 32. 29611.
Phone: 952 869 603 Fax: 952 869 665

Places to be visited
Town Centre:
The most interesting building in Istán is the parish church of San Miguel, patron saint of the town. It dates from the 16th century and was built in a single rectangular nave with timber structuring and a square area that opens out into the epistle. The principal façade, since restored, comprises a semicircular arch supported by pillars, with an open, triangular pediment. The Baroque steeple is the most interesting element on the outside. The layout of the town is similar to many other white villages along the Costa del Sol: low, whitewashed houses with wrought-ironwork on the windows, small balconies and red, tiled roofs. One notices here the large number of irrigation channels that flow through the town, showing a wise use of the natural resources of the area by the ingenious irrigation and watering system the Moors used for agriculture and domestic purposes. Among the many fountains in the village, the best known is the El Chorro, which has become an emblem of the village itself. It has seven water pipes, and one can see the marks left by the many years of use on the ancient stone. The Torre Vigía is in the upper part of the town, its last inhabitant being the student Pedro Escalante, the only Christian living in the village during the Morisco rebellion of 1567.
The lookout point of El Peñón:
The beautiful landscape around Istán is best seen from the lookout point at El Peñón. From here one can see the rivers Verde and Molinos, named for the many mills along its banks, while the mountains of the Sierra de las Nieves rise in the background. The municipal area extends to the foot of the Sierra Blanca mountains, its highest peak being the famous La Concha mountain overlooking Marbella. The privileged environment of Istán has resulted in the decision to build one of the two Environmental Universities in Spain there.

FIESTAS
The festival in honour of Istán’s patron saint, San Miguel, takes place at the end of September. On the Sunday prior to September 29th, there is a dawn mass for the so-called "tomilleros", those who participate in the romería and known as such in reference to the large quantity of thyme (tomillo) that grows in the area. They then go to the hermitage carved out of the rock face, three kilometres from the village. They spend the day there, returning in the evening to take part in the procession of their saint through the streets. The representation of the Passion of Christ takes place during Holy Week in Istán, a tradition recently recuperated by the panochos (Ears of Corn), so called because of the amount of corn grow in the area. The origin of this theatrical work goes back, according to parochial dfocuments, to 1666. The players covered their faces in masks and silently executed the movements dictated by the text in the main village square. Dialogue was introduced in 1980, and the use of the masks was discontinued. Another popular festival is the tostoná, the roasting of the chestnuts, which takes place on November 1st, All Saints Day. In this, the people of the place eat roast chestnut in the countryside and drink the local aguardiente. Later in the month, on November 30th, there is the Day of San Andrés, with the beating of drums and singing of songs along the streets.

GASTRONOMY
The local cuisine is quite varied, ranging from kid in garlic to various types of soups and stews. One of the most representative dishes of the village is the tomato and prickly pear soup, or the ajoblanco, a type of garlic-flavoured soup. Among the favourite pastries of the village are the exquisite borrachuelos, pastries made with liqueur; the puff pastries and the cakes made with olive oil.