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Genalguacil,
the art of village life.
IN
THE HEART OF THE GENAL VALLEY, IN THE RONDA MOUNTAINS, GENALGUACIL
WELCOME THE VISITOR TO UNIQUE SURROUNDINGS WHERE THE TRADITIONS
OF THE WHITE VILLAGES ARE FUSED WITH THE MOST CONTEMPORARY
OF THE ART WORLD AND THE MOST PECULIAR OF THE NATURAL WORLD.
Genalguacil
is not just another village. It's true that its lattice-work
maze of steeply-sloping streets and alleys with snow-white
frontages, testimony to its Moorish origin, and its position
right in the valley, like a balcony giving onto the natural
world, are not unique. This doesn't distinguish it from any
of the other villages in the area. Its little squares and
balconies overflow with flowers and its inhabitants lead peaceful,
silent lives that are historically and economically dependent
on the extraction of cork. But neither is this heritage exclusive
to Genalguacil.
What
makes it different, original, is that this little mountain
village, which still maintains the traditional uses and customs
of yesteryear, turned several years ago into an outdoor museum,
home to an array of sculptures belonging to artists of the
five continents. The figures in stone, iron, wood and clay
surprises the visitor in the most unlikely of places. The
most innovative and vanguardiste art cohabits here with the
potted geraniums, reed chairs and grass hats, the most typically
Andaluz. But we'd better start at the beginning.
Origins:
Within its local boundaries, in the so-called Reales Chicos,
handmills have been found that were made by the Phoenician
and Hellenic cultures. There were once rich gold and silver
mines here, today exhausted. These handmills were used to
crush precious metals so that they could subsequently be purified.
Its name comes from the Arabic Genna- Alwacir meaning "Gardens
of the Vizier". After the arrival of the Reyes Católicos
(Catholic kings), the Moslem population remaided in the village
a bloody rebellion in the mid 16th century ended this peaceful
coexistence. This uprising is a milestone in Genalguacil's
history, worthy of mention, not only for the repercussions
it had, bur also for the atrocities committed.
According to chroniclers, five hundred soldiers were sent
at that time to clear the Sierra Bermeja (mountains) of people.
Some of them sacked villages and took slaves, incurring the
wrath of the Moors who came down from the mountains to defend
their women and children.
The Arab rebels laid siege to the ancient church of San Pedro
Mártir de Verona where the leader of the militia, Pedro
Bermúdez, had left some of his men inside to look after
the Moorish women, children and old people. The Moors go out
those who had been imprisoned within and set fire to it with
the soldiers inside, giving them no chance of rescue. After
the expulsion of the Moslems, Genalcuacil was repopulated
with Christians from nearby areas. As late as 1856, the village
was made part of the Duque de Arcos's estate, until a law
took away this medieval privilege.
Sculptural
streets:
Bring together a heterogeneous group of artists and give an
evocative climate, surround them with nature, though inserting
them into a small, close-knit community. Give them materials;
enable them to exchange ideas and opinions and let creativity
and coexistence do the rest. And
afterwards, when the works have taken shape and form, leave
them there, so that they end up forming part of that place,
of its streets, its squares, its countryside, its memories
and those that live there. Since the idea was firts realised
in 1994, many artists have used the magic formula of Genalcuacil.
This white village is already a museum with its own array
of art works and is an example of how art, nature and the
day to day life of a small community can be linked.
In
the heart of nature:
Set in the midle of the Genal Valley, a stone's throw from
the sea and one of the highest mountains in the Ronda mountains,
the woods of Genalguacil are of enormous value and beauty,
populated by chestnuts, corks and pines, including the Blue
Spanish Fir, a botanic relic that is found nowhere else in
the world.
In its immediate vicinity is a wide network of paths and tracks
that lead through totally unspoilt countryside below high
mountain scenary. These paths are ideal for excursions on
foot or bike which can be complemented, in summer, with a
dip in the crystal-clear and clean water of the rivers Almachar
and Genal.
Useful
information
Access:
From the Costa del Sol, starting from Estepona, you come across
the road that leads here and which passes through Peñas
Blancas and Jubrique on the way.
The distance is some 40 kms.
Basic
data:
Size: 31,60 Km²
Population: Approx. 600
Residents known as: Genalguacileños
Monuments: Parish Church, Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja, ancient
mines, Museum of Los Encuentros de Arte (Art Biennale) in
the Genal Valley.
Geographical situation: In the lower Genal Valley region of
the Ronda Mountains, 158 kilometres from Malaga and 45 from
Ronda, at 517 metres above sea level.
Tourist information: Town Hall, C/. Real, 3. 29492.
Phone: 952 152 003 Fax: 952 152 129
Places
to be visited
Art Biennale: Since 1994, an art biennale has been taking
place in Genalguacil every two years during the first fortnight
in August, attracting artists from all over Spain and Europe
to this spot for two weeks of painting, sculpting and the
creative exchange of ideas. They are put up by the Town hall
and have all their materials paid for, along with a catalogue
being published, and the resulting works of art become the
property of the town itself. All aspects of art are included
in the programme, with sculptures in wood, metal and ceramics,
and murals and photography forming part of what becomes the
town’s permanent collection. Many of the works are out in
the open, as planned, while others are housed in Town Hall
property until work on the old oil press, to become the new
municipal museum, has been finished.
Urban
Centre: Genalguacil is a typical small mountain village whose
only ancient work of architecture is its church, dating from
the 17th century and built in honour of St. Peter of Verona
(San Pedro de Verona). Its interior is divided into three
naves, separated by semicircular arches supported by columns
and covered in a timber ceiling. On the outside, its most
interesting element is the octagonal-based tower.
Trekking: The countryside surrounding the village is quite
beautiful and ecologically important, and the best way to
get to know it is to walk. Of particular interest to nature
lovers is the Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja area, where one
can see the rare pinsapo trees - a species of Mediterranean
pine – and animals and birds like the mountain deer and the
various species of hawks and eagles. Interesting too is the
area known as Los Morterestes, situated in the middle of a
pinsapo woods where the first settlers here mined gold.
FIESTAS
One of the most traditional festivals in Genalguacil is the
Festival of the Castaña, the toasted chestnuts, which
takes place in the month of November. There are also many
different events taking place during the Encuentros de Arte
del Valle del Genal, such as theatrical and musical performances
and competitions. Of a more religious character are the Carnival
in February, the Huerto del Niño, the Holy Week celebrations
and the festival in honour of the patron saint, San Pedro
Mártir de Verona, which takes place on April 29th.
A special 24 hours of sport is held in August, in which most
of the young people from the village participate GASTRONOMY AND CRAFTWORK
Among the culinary delights of Genalguacil are the broths,
the tomato soup, the hot gazpacho, the mushroom omelettes
and the delicious pork dishes. Many excellent pastries are
made here too, most of them by the people of the village themselves,
using local produce.