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Frigiliana.
The
south slope of the Almijara mountain range takes up a large
part of the municipality of Frigiliana and its topography
is complex and rich in contrasts, with peaks that, without
reaching the heights of that mountain mass, do easily exceed
1,000 metres, such as Sierra de Enmedio (1,164 metres), or
that are close to that height as in the case of El Fuerte
(976 metres).
The
River Chillar marks the boundary of this municipality and
that of Nerja, and its tributary the Higuerón provides,
with its so-called Hoces del Río Higuerón (Gorges
of the River Higuerón), one of the most striking natural
sites in the entire area. It, and the cliffs and gorges of
the River Chillar itself, form an incomparably scenic landscape.
The terraced market gardens that, at the village, begin their
descent toward the coast, between the dazzling white of the
houses and the blue Mediterranean in the background, are another
feature of an area whose image will remain engraved in the
traveller’s memory for a very long time.
Travellers coming to Frigiliana for the first time will probably
have a preconceived idea about the village, since many different
clichés have been used to describe it. In fact, these
same clichés could describe any of the typical Andalusian
mountain villages that look out over the sea. In this case,
however, all the clichés are true. and are even surpassed
by an ineffable sensation that is as hard to describe as it
is easy to perceive and that perhaps no one can accurately
identify unless by resorting to another cliché: bewitchment.
Clichés
aside, the historic quarter of Frigiliana, of all those in
the entire province, is considered to be one that has best
preserved its original Moorish form. Its anarchic street plan-anarchic
from the twenty-first century perspective-leads the visitor
from one surprise to another: unexpectedly massive architecture,
streets, alleys, covered passageways, stairways, plants and
flowers in the most unlikely places, a mixture of fragrances
from hidden sources, ancient history in new whitewash… And
once you leave the intimacy and constriction of its streets,
the breadth of a superb landscape above the Eastern Costa
del Sol.
Remains found in 1987 in the Cueva de los Murciélagos
(The Bat cave) attest to the presence of man in this territory
from the late Neolithic period (3,000 B. C.) until the Calcolithic
or Copper Age (2.000 B. C.). There is a menhir (standing stone)
from the late Algar culture that provides evidence that man
was present in this area in that era, and very near the village
is the Cerrillo de las Sombras necropolis from the Phoenician
epoch (700-600 B. C.).
The
Romans occupied this territory in 206 B.C. through treaties
with the native population and, Frigiliana was included in
the Conventus de Gades. The name of the village comes from
the Romans. It derives from Frexinius (a personage about whom
nothing is known) and the suffix “ana”, which means source,
that is to say the place or villa of Frexinius.
Little is known about the history of Frigiliana from the arrival
of the Arabs to the Peninsula in 711 A. D. until the late
ninth century, when the fortress was built, except that it
was under the leadership of Omar Ben Hafsun. During the thirteenth
and fourteenth centuries, it formed part of the Nazarite Kingdom.
The village surrendered to the Christian troops in 1485 without
bloodshed.
Bit by bit, however, the Moors were stripped of the few rights
that they had (they farmed the worst soil and were forbidden
to speak and write their language or wear their traditional
dress) until the Moorish rebellion broke out in the Alpujarras
mountains and was brutally put down by the Christians. The
Moors from La Axarquía and the Málaga mountains,
expecting the aid promised by Aben Humeya from the Alpujarras
and also aid from North Africa, sought refuge in El Fuerte
de Frigiliana (the Fort of Frigiliana), where some 7,000 of
them gathered.
On
28 May 1569, the corregidor (magistrate) of Vélez began
the first assault with the ominous outcome of 20 dead and
150 wounded among the Christian troops. At that time, 25 galleys
of the Italian fleet were sailing in the Mediterranean and
the corregidor of Vélez asked for assistance in squashing
the Frigiliana insurgents. On this occasion, it was 6,000
men who confronted the Moors, who were defeated despite their
resistance on 11 June 1569. There were 2,000 killed and 3,000
captives among the defeated forces (some 2,000 escaped) and
400 dead and 800 wounded among the victors.
The Battle of El Peñón de Frigiliana has been
reproduced by Amparo Ruiz de Luna, somewhat in the manner
if a “romance de ciego” ballad, on glazed ceramic panels that
can be seen at the present time in various places in the village.
From
that date until the nineteenth century, misfortune rained
down upon Frigiliana. When it was not the plague that decimated
the population, it was a storm that destroyed the crops, or
an earthquake, or the phylloxera pest that attacked the grapevines
or an outbreak of yellow fever that caused havoc. It would
not be until the arrival of tourism that Frigiliana, like
the rest of the Costa del Sol, entered into a period of prosperity
and social and economic peace.
Outstandings
Visits:
The village’s historic quarter, as has been said, is an aesthetic
gift that no visitor should decline. Perhaps the heavy tourist
traffic, especially during the high season (July, August and
September), slightly dilutes this village’s many unique characteristics
but that is the price that must be paid when large crowds
of tourists gather at a particular place. Don’t think, for
that reason, that the village is just a display window directed
at the tourist trade; it is a living community that happens
to share its idiosyncrasies with people from all over the
world but that admirably preserves its cultural and historical
treasures for whoever goes to the trouble of discovering them.
The iglesia de San Antonio (San Antonio church) is the main
religious structure in Frigiliana. It was erected in the seventeenth
century and modified in the eighteenth. Its interior has three
naves separated by pilasters and covered by a wooden roof.
The height of the transept is increased by means of a dome
with lantern. The church houses a painted wooden carving of
San Antón from the eighteenth century. The exterior
displays a simple brick façade with a semicircular
arch and a three-level bell tower.
The
former silo of the antiguos pósitos (ancient granaries)
is an eighteenth century building in the historic quarter.
Nowadays, it is occupied by private dwellings and, only the
arcades of the main façade remain from the ancient
structure. The Palacio de los condes de Frigiliana (Palace
of the Counts of Frigiliana) is a large old house from the
sixteenth century, that was later converted into a sugar mill.
It is in the Renaissance style and covers 2,000 square metres.
The building stones of its façade came from the destroyed
Arabic castle in the locality.
(On the subject of the sugar mill, it should be remembered
that this part of La Axarquía based its economy for
many years on sugarcane but that crop has now been partly
replaced by tropical fruits. The mill was the place where
the sugarcane was converted into a product for immediate consumption).
The ermita del Ecce Homo (Ecce Homo hermitage), also known
as the hermitage of El Santo Cristo de la Caña (Holy
Christ of the Sugarcane) dates from the eighteenth century.
It is a very simple single-nave structure that is entered
through an atrium with a semicircular arch. Part of the walls
of the ninth century Castillo de Lizar (Lizar castle) still
stand in the upper part of the village. The fortress’ entrance
ramp can also still be seen. The Palacio del Apero (Apero
Palace, from the seventeenth century) was connected to the
sugar mill, but its original function was to serve as a granary,
horse stables and storehouse for farm tools. It has a rectangular
floor plan and its rooms are distributed around an interior
courtyard. It houses the Museo Arqueológico (Archaeological
Museum), which displays, among other items, a series of Iberian-Phoenician
tombs.
The aforementioned menhir or standing stone is the most important
of the archaeological sites that have been discovered in Frigiliana.
It is from the Algar culture (1,500 B.C.) and is in the Mudéjar
neighbourhood. The Phoenician necropolis is at Cerrillo de
las Sombras.
How
to Get There:
Take the Mediterranean Expressway (A-7; N-340) towards Motril
and shortly before Nerja turn onto the MA-105, which leads
straight to Frigiliana.
Interesting
Facts:
Surface Area: 40 square kilometres
Population: about 2,300
What the natives are called: Frigilianenses. Nickname: Aguanosos
Monuments: the San Antonio church, former granary, Palacio
de los Condes de Frigiliana (Palace of the Counts of Frigiliana),
Ecce Homo hermitage, walls of the Castillo de Lizar (Lizar
castle), Palacio del Apero (El Apero palace), Algar culture
menhir (standing stone), and the Phoenician necropolis
Geographical Location: in the eastern part La Axarquía,
in the foothills of the Almijara mountain range. The village
is more than 430 metres above sea level. It is 56 kilometres
from the provincial capital and only 6 from Nerja. The area
records an average annual rainfall of about 600 litres per
square metre and the average temperature is 18º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle Real, 80 (29788). Telephone:
952 533 002; Fax: 952 533 434