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El
Borge, capital of the raisin.
DEEP
IN THE HEART OF THE AXARQUÍA REGION, ON THE BORDER
OF THE MONTES DE MÁLAGA, STANDS EL BORGE, A SMALL TOWN
OVERLOOKING RAISIN AND VINE COUNTRY. THE SO-CALLED CAPITAL
OF THE RAISIN IS A TRANQUIL SPOT OF WHITEWASHED HOUSE FRONTS.
COLOURFUL BALCONIES AND WINDING ALLEYWAYS, LEGACY OF ITS REBELLIOUS
MOORISH PAST.
Standing 237
metres above sea level, at the foot of the Cerro Cútar
(595 m.), alongside the river of the same name, El Borge rises
above precipitous hillsides covered with vineyeards and olive
groves. On the gentler contours of the lower slopes are cornfields,
with orchards of citrus and other fruits, and vegetable plots
occupying the base of the valley.
Quite
when or how El Borge was founded is a mystery, as the only
data available are based purely on the form of the settlement.
In any case, the history of the village is similar to that
almost all those of the Axarquía region. What is a
matter of record is that is was a rebel flashpoint during
the great Moorish uprising, to the extent that the Governor
of Vélez had to send a considerable detachment to quell
ist streets. One of the most remarkable local characters was
the bandit known as 'Cross-eye of el Borge', who in 1880 ran
circles around the Civil Guard of the district. The force
suffered more casualties at his hands than those of any other
bandit, although popular legend portrays him as an almost
romantic outlaw. The town's Bandit Museum is dedicated to
him, and also houses a collection of paintings and illustrations
of the bandit life, along with other historical features.
A
walk in white
Perhaps El Borge's greatest attraction is simply to let your
feet wander down its steep, whitewashed streets, festooned
always with blooming geraniums.
One must-see is the district fo El Rinconcillo, where you
will find various streets connected by flights of steps.
The Church of the Rosary is the town's most significant historical
building, constructed in 1505 on the foundations of the former
mosque. Architectually it is one of the most remarkable churches
in the region, adopting an original stance somewhere between
the Gothic and Renaissance styles.
The naves, meanwhile, are supported by Mudejar-style wooden
bracing, while the niches reveal Baroque coffering. In the
square outside, to one side of the church, can be seen an
elaborate fountain decorated with painted tiles representing
Our Lady of Lourdes. Another notable fountain, or Arab origin
and recently restored, is known as the Horn Fountain.
The Ornithological and Botanical Park of La Alcua is another
fine place in which to lose oneself, its magnificent gardens
hone to many exotic plants, fountains and species of bitd.
Another treat offered by a visit to El Borge is its food and
drik. The simple but varied local menu features such delights
as gazpacho accompanied with broad beans and raisins, ajoblanco,
a cold almond and garlic soup, and the traditional hornazo
pie, prepared for the feast of Saint Mark. Special mention
should also be made of the raisins, either as they are or
in brandy, and, of course, the muscatel wine.
The introduction throughout the Axarquía region of
many subtropical and greenhouse crops (avocados, custard apples,
mangoes, papaya, etc.) has greatly enriched the flavours available
to its culinary traditions.
Basic data
Size: 25,70 Km²
Population: 1,071
Residents known as: Borgeños
Monuments: Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario, Rinconcillo
Barrio.
Geographical situation: Between the Mountains of Malaga and
the Axarquía, 24 kilometres from Vélez Málaga
and 28 from Malaga.
Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza Constitución,
1. 29718 Málaga.
Phone: 952 512 033
Places
to be visited
Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario
The most interesting building, as in most villages in the
area, is the church. As in most villages in the province of
Malaga, too, in El Borge it was built in the early sixteenth
century, on the orders of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand,
on the foundations of an old mosque. Dedicated to Our Lady
of the Rosary, it was consecrated on May 25th 1505 by the
Archbishop of Seville, Diego de Deza. Architecturally it is
one of the most interesting churches in the Axarquía
region, being designed in an original combination of Gothic
and Renaissance. The church tower, however, is baroque. Although
its base is rectangular, further up the tower becomes octagonal,
being topped by a roof of vitrified ceramic tiles. On one
side of the square where the church stands there is a fountain
decorated with tiles representing the Virgen of Lourdes.
The Rinconcillo Barrio
One cannot visit El Borge without taking a stroll down the
streets filled with genanium pots in the windows. Particularly
beautiful is the barrio of El Rinconcillo, the streets themselves
stepped in places to accommodate the lie of the land.
El Bizco de El Borge
In the days before communications were so fast or so easy
the village was home to one of the most famous bandits in
the province of Malaga - El Bizco del Borge (the cross-eyed
man from El Borge). Described as bloodthirsty, depraved and
treacherous, he was born on September 2nd 1837 and died in
Lucena, in the province of Cordoba, in a confrontation with
Civil Guards, on May 21st, 1889. The scene of his most famous
deed was the village of Alfarnate, where he murdered a gallant
young man known as El Chirrina, who had given El Bizco away
when he was planning an attack. The bandit was twice wed but
neither of the marriages was particularly happy, due to his
lifestyle.
Museum of Popular Arts. C/Río, 3. Tel: 952 512 133.
Visits on appointment.
HOW
TO GET THERE
Access to El Borge by road is not particularly difficult.
The best way from the city of Malaga is along the Autovía
del Mediterráneo, turning off on the Benagalbón
and Moclinejo road at Rincón de la Victoria. From Vélez-Málaga,
take the the C-335 road in the Benamocarra direction. The
town’s geographical position allows us to enjoy rural and
beach tourism at the same time, since it is only fifteen minutes
from the beaches of Torre del Mar and Rincón de la
Victoría.
FIESTAS
The main festivity in El Borge is held on September 24th,
celebrated as Raisin Day. Thousand of visitors flock to the
village to drink the wines and eat the grapes. Other local
specialities include two types of gazpacho, one made with
broad beans and one with cucumber. The feast of the patron
saint of the village, St. Gabriel, is celebrated on Easter
Saturday, Sunday and Monday, with the procession to the Camposanto.
The celebrations begin after mass, when the church bells ring
out. Another popular festival here is the Sanmarqueo, unique
to this place, which takes place on April 25th. The romería
in honour of San Isidro is on May 15th, when the saint’s image
is carried in procession through the streets. And finally
there is the San Juan festival at the end of June, with the
Noche de las Candelas, the Night of the Candles.
GASTRONOMY
The gastronomy of El Borge can be enjoyed at any time of the
year, although it is best to go there on a gastronomic trip
during the Día de la Pasa, Raisin Day, when visitors
can taste the different varieties of grapes, the aguardiente
or the gazpacho soup with beans or cucumber, a speciality
of the area.