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Cortes
de la Frontera.
The
Los Alcornocales (170,000 hectares) and Sierra de Grazalema
(50,000 hectares) Nature Parks converge in the municipality
of Cortes de la Frontera, which contains a large part of their
extraordinary environmental treasure and affords the visitor
a view of scenic surroundings that are absolutely awe-inspiring.
The
large forests of cork oaks that cover much of this territory
continue into the province of Cádiz, but before crossing
the border of Málaga they form a number of sites that
can, without gratuitous hyperbole, be characterised as paradisiacal.
La Sauceda and the Las Buitreras gorge, adjoining the El Colmenar
neighbourhood, are only two examples of the bounty that nature
has bestowed upon this municipality. The first site is fully
equipped for camping and taking however much time one wishes
to enjoy the surroundings, while the latter-Las Buitreras-is
more difficult of access but compensates for this with an
astonishing spectacle: the channel of the River Guadiaro confined
between walls more than 100 metres high.
It
seems that the origins of Cortes de la Frontera date back
to the twelfth and eleventh centuries B. C., when the Phoenicians
arrived in this area where the Tartessians were already established.
Centuries later the Greeks made their appearance, which can
be described as fleeting, as it generally was on the coasts
of Andalusia. After the Greeks came the Romans, from whose
era sufficient evidence remains: the traces of the town of
Saepona 28 kilometres from the present village and the ruins
of Cortes el Viejo (Old Cortes), only two kilometres from
the village in a setting that overlooks a long stretch of
the River Guadiaro.
The Muslims confronted the Visigoths on Cortesano soil in
the year 711 in a place that is still recognizable today,
according to a number of researchers. At the death of Almanzor
in 1002, Cortes belonged alternately to the kingdoms of Seville
and Granada and even to the kingdoms of Ronda and Algeciras.
Fernando III the Saint conquered the village in 1248 but it
later again passed into the hands of the Muslims until the
Marquise of Cádiz, Rodrigo Ponce de León, took
it in the name of the Catholic Monarchs in 1485. This kind
of alternation between one kingdom and another was not unusual
with villages that had “de la Frontera” (“of the Frontier”)
as part of their names.
The
modern location of the village is more recent, having its
origin in the seventeenth century. It was in that period that
cork exploitation, one of the locality’s main sources of wealth,
began to develop. It continues to be one of the pillars of
the economy of Cortes de la Frontera. Due to the era in which
the village was founded its urban structure is noticeably
different from that of many mountain localities that have
a Moorish heritage. The municipality is also unusual in having
three centres of population, which it is not unique in the
province of Málaga but is nevertheless not common.
They are: the main population centre, which is Cortes de la
Frontera itself, El Colmenar and La Cañada or Estación
de Cortes.
Outstandings
Visits:
Contrary to the case of other villages whose populations do
not exceed 10,000, in which the parish church stands as the
most representative local monument, in the case of Cortes
the Casa Consistorial or Town Hall is the most important structure.
Carlos III ordered its construction in 1784. The building
displays a neoclassic façade that is notable for ten
arcades distributed over two stories that are crowned by a
large pediment, in the centre of which is the clock and the
royal coat of arms. The humble construction materials-cut
sandstone-do not detract in the slightest from the building’s
architectural elegance.
The Nuestra Señora del Rosario church in the centre
of the village dates from the late eighteenth century and
is divided into three naves separated by semicircular arches.
The central nave has a barrel vault, and a dome with a lantern
covers the transept. Outside are two stone façades
with lintels and the bell tower, which is located next to
the front of the church.
The Casa de los Valdenebros (Los Valdenebros house), also
known as the Casa de las Tetitas (Las Tetitas house), has
a beautiful stone façade dated 1763 which displays
the coat of arms of its former owner, a soldier who received
a noble title. The mansion still has a subterranean passage
that connects with the old Valdenebros chapel, which has a
façade somewhere between baroque and Mudéjar
that was built in 1760.
The Plaza de Toros (Bullring) was inaugurated in 1894 and
restored in 1921. It is, with its ring of almost 30 metres
across, the largest bullring in the Highlands except for that
of Ronda, of course. The question of why a small village has
such a large bullring is explained by the intensive livestock
industry in Cortes.
The
Casa de Piedra dates from the sixth and seventh centuries.
As its name (Stone House) indicates, it was built by the primitive
method of excavating into a huge rock, making the manual labour
performed on it truly remarkable. On the other hand the thirteenth
century Torre del Paso (El Paso tower) was erected to watch
over the Gaucín-Ubrique road through the El Espino
pass. It is a simple watchtower of functional construction.
How
to Get There:
Starting from the AP-7 (N-340) expressway on the Costa del
Sol, take the A-377 from Manilva to Gaucín, and there
continue by way of the A-369. About seven kilometres farther
along turn onto the A-373, which leads to Cortes. If you leave
from the city of Ronda, you must go south on the A-369, and
after passing Algatocín take the A-373.
Interesting
Facts:
Surface Area: 173.6 square kilometres
Population: about 3,500
What the natives are called: Cortesanos
Monuments: the Casa Consistorial (Town Hall), Nuestra Señora
del Rosario church, Casa de los Valdenebros (Los Valdenebros
house), Plaza de Toros (Bullring) and the Casa de Piedra (Stone
House).
Geographical
Location: in the Ronda highlands in the westernmost part of
the province of Málaga, bordering on the province of
Cádiz. The village is 600 metres above sea level. It
is 40 kilometres from Ronda, 20 from Benaoján and 159
from the provincial capital. The average rainfall is plentiful
(1,160 litres per square metre) and the average temperature
is slightly more than 16º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Plaza Carlos III, 1 (29380).
Telephone: 952 154 000; Fax: 952 154 342