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Coín.
Coín’s
municipal territory stretches from the considerable heights
of the Alpujata range, one of the mountain masses that separate
the interior of the province from the western coast, to the
centre of the Guadalhorce valley region. This descent is gentle
but there are strong contrasts to be seen not only in the
changing contours of the earth but also in the types of crops
and vegetation. Thus, while pines and cork oaks abound in
the mountains, the landscape of the lower elevations is dominated
by orchards and gardens, and near the River Guadalhorce broad
expanses of citrus and even subtropical crops make their appearance.
It
is not strange in such a country as this, with a temperate
climate, favourable terrain and abundant water, since the
Rivers Pereilas and Grande, tributaries of the Guadalhorce,
flow through it, that the first human settlements occurred
during the Paleolithic period. The site known as the “Taller”
(workshop) of Ardite furnished materials for making tools
during that prehistoric period, while notable Metals Age sites
are Cerro Carranque and Llano de la Virgen, which has been
designated a Bien de Interés Cultural (Property of
Cultural Interest).
Another archaeological site, Cerro del Aljibe, furnishes proof
of the passage of the Greeks, Phoenicians, Iberians and Romans
through this area, and burial sites from the Visigothic era
have been found at Cerro de las Calaveras. All this indicates
that the municipality of Coín has been inhabited continuously
since very remote times to the present day.
The actual foundation of Coín was during the Muslim
era, however. According to the chronicler of Abderramán
III, the former Roman settlement was fortified in the year
920 by a high-ranking personage from Córdoba named
Dakwan (Coín). Dakwan would play a very important role
in the campaigns of Abderramán III against the Muladí
rebel Omar Ben Hafsun until 928, the year of the fall of Bobastro,
Omar Ben Hafsun’s general headquarters.
Three centuries later the Moroccan historian Ibn Adhari referred
to Coín as Castro Dakwan (Fortress Dakwan), which has
given rise to conjecture that the origin of the city’s name
is Roman or at least Mozaribic, especially considering the
existence of a Mozarabic cave basilica near the village, which
indicates the existence of a Mozarabic community that predated
the arrival of the army of Abderramán III.
During
the Muslim period agriculture was especially developed in
this municipality and, as in other localities in Andalusia,
some of the irrigation infrastructure is still preserved.
In about 1480 it was a medium-sized Nazarite Kingdom city,
with some 3,000 residents. It should be kept in mind that
in that period Málaga had some 20,000 souls and Granada
about 50,000.
The city fell into the hands of the Christian troops in 1485,
a fact that is reflected in the dressed stonework of the Toledo
cathedral choir room. The Catholic King immediately afterward
ordered the demolition of the fortress because due to its
size it was too costly to maintain a garrison in it sufficient
for its defence. Two years after the Conquest the place was
repopulated and the lands distributed, and from the beginning
of the sixteenth century the village showed a constant increase
in population. It is the opinion of some writers that Coín
had the honour of receiving a visit in 1594 by Miguel de Cervantes
when, the great writer had a job as tax collector for the
Crown.
There
were 700 orchards and market gardens in 1773, in which all
kinds of fruits and vegetables were grown. The countryside
produced wheat, maize, olive oil, barley, hemp, figs, honey,
silk, etc. and also had 14 oil mills and 20 flour mills, in
a time when the population was 1,800. Coín entered
the modern age in the twentieth century with the opening of
the railway (no longer in existence) that linked the locality
with the city of Málaga (1913), and in 1930 Alfonso
XIII granted it the status of Ciudad (City) and its Town Hall
the right to the appellation of “Excellent”.
Outstandings
Visits:
Coín’s historical and artistic heritage is concentrated
above all in its religious structures. It is with reason that
the city was the seat of one of the vicariates into which
the Bishopric of Málaga was divided, with jurisdiction
over 14 villages in the province. The fact that in the sixteenth
century seven cofradías (brotherhoods) had already
been formed is an unequivocal indication of Coín’s
religious importance.
The first church to be erected in Coín was the Santa
María de la Encarnación church, which began
as the first Muslim mosque to be consecrated for Christian
worship. A Franciscan beaterio was built inside it in the
early eighteenth century and a convent was constructed later
that is notable for its baroque cloister.
The San Andrés church and the La Caridad hospital were
originally built on the Plaza de San Andrés, and in
1520 were already occupying the present location. The church
has a quite unusual L-shaped floor plan; it seems that the
purpose was to place the ill in one of the branches in such
a way that they were separated from the rest of the faithful.
It is one of four churches in existence in Andalusia with
this characteristic. The church’s Mudéjar coffered
ceiling and stained glass windows are especially valuable
works, as are its cloister and its unusual eighteenth century
three-level façade with belfry, a construction that
is outstanding among those of its era for its originality
and beauty.
The
San Juan church, completed in the mid-sixteenth century, is
a good example of the columnar church group of Renaissance
Andalusia. This building mixes classic features with Gothic
and Mudéjar that, with the passage of time, display
a harmonious conjunction of styles, although the baroque has
predominated since the restoration that was done in the eighteenth
century. The interior is remarkable for its Mudéjar
coffered ceiling and two sculptures, one from the sixteenth
century of Nuestra Señora de los Angeles (Our Lady
of the Angels) and one of the Virgen de la Fuensanta (Virgin
of Fuensanta, patron saint of Coín). The latter is
a late Gothic work only 11 centimetres tall from the late
fifteenth century that, it is believed, was brought to the
village by some of the Christians that took part in the Conquest.
The original Nuestra Señora de la Fuensanta hermitage
on the Monda road was already in existence in the sixteenth
century. The current one dates from 1680, but was modified
in the eighteenth century. The part of its architecture most
worthy of note is its main chapel. It was conceived as an
open “camarín” (niche for the patron saint image),
and its lavish decoration brings to mind that of the camarín
in the La Victoria church in the city of Málaga. It
is a rococo style work with almost no part of its surface
free of decoration.
The
Torre de los Trinitarios (Trinitarians tower) was built outside
the walls of the village, also on the road to Monda. It has
a triangular base and is one of three towers in existence
in Andalusia with a base of this type (the other two are that
of the Santa Ana church in Archidona and that of the Las Mínimas
convent in Ecija). It was the tower of the Santo Cristo de
la Vera Cruz church, which belonged to what was first the
Los Trinitarios and later the Franciscan convent. The latter
order abandoned the site after the expulsions carried out
by Mendizábal in the first third of the nineteenth
century.
The Sala Arqueológica (Archaeological Hall) in the
La Encarnación church (Plaza de Santa María;
telephone: 952 453 211) houses more than 59 prehistoric and
late prehistoric relics from the municipality.
How
to Get There:
There are four routes to Coín from the Costa del Sol,
but the one that is used the most leaves the city of Málaga
by A-357 in the direction of Campillos. You will first come
to Cártama, and at a very short distance from that
village must take the A-355, which leads straight to Coín.
You can likewise get to this locality by the N-340. Almost
equidistant between Torremolinos and Málaga is the
very well marked exit for the A-366, which first passes through
Churriana, Alhaurín de la Torre, and Alhaurín
el Grande before getting to Coín.
The other two access routes start at the Mediterranean Expressway
(N-340). One of them is by the A-368 exit a few kilometres
from Benalmádena; you must first go Mijas and later
take the A-387 to Alhaurín el Grande, where you can
connect with the A-366, which leads to Coín. From Fuengirola
(another of the access points) you must take the A-387 to
Mijas, and from there follow the same route as previously
explained.
Interesting
Facts:
Surface Area: 128.4 square kilometres
Population: about 20,000
What the natives are called: Coineños
Monuments: the churches of Santa María de la Encarnación,
San Andrés, and San Juan, Nuestra Señora de
la Fuensanta hermitage, Torre de los Trinitarios (Trinitarians
Tower), Sala Arqueológica (Archaeological hall in the
church of La Encarnación)
Geographical Location: in the southern part of the Guadalhorce
valley region, 38 kilometres from Málaga and 210 metres
above sea level. The average annual rainfall is 610 litres
per square metre and the average temperature is 17º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Plaza Alameda, 10 (29100).
Telephone: 952 453 018; Fax: 952 453 284. Tourist Office,
Plaza de Santa María (La Encarnación convent).
Telephone: 952 453 211; Fax: 952 453 211