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Carratraca,
the therapeutic town.
THIS
IS THE SPA TOWN. BUT ITS RICHNESS LIES NOT ONLY THERE. ITS
NATURAL SURROUNDINGS, ITS HISTORICAL REMAINS, ITS FIESTAS
AND TRADITIONS AND ITS INTRINSIC INTERNAL PEACE MAKE CARRATRACA
ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING RURAL DESTINATIONS IN THE PROVINCE
OF MALAGA.
Across from
the Alcaparain mountains, to the northeast of the abrupt Ronda
mountains, is Carratraca. Its location, between mountains
and the extensive Guadalhorce Valley, has affected its history
and its lifestyle. But the main feature that has marked this
town is the sulphur water spring.
According
to oral tradition, very common in these surroundings, the
discovery of its curative properties was made by a beggar
called Juan "Camisón" (nightgown), so called
because he always wore a long nightgown with which he hid
and protected his ulcer-ridden body. Seemingly, this good
man arrived at a property situated beside the spring to beg
the charity of its inhabitants and he saw that a shepherd
was pouring this water over animals that had skin ulcers.
Some time later, he returned and saw that the goats had healed.
That was when he decided to bathe in the waters and after
several immersions, his many skin lesions disappeared.
The spa was built in the 19th century; a beautiful neo-classical
building that at present is undergoing reforms.
In 1830 King Fernando VII ordered construction of a large
inn next to it so that he could stay with his retinue. In
1855 the spa was enlarged, using land donated by the Count
and Countess of Teba, under the condition that a private bath
was to be reserved for them and for the emperor of France
Napoleon III.
The fame of the spring quickly spread throughout the country
and soon houses and inns sprang up, a bullring and even three
casinos. One of the most notable buildings from that time
is the Town Hall, popurlarly referred to as the "Casa
Arabe" it is a palace of neo-mudejar style that belonged
to Trinidad Grund. Such famous intellectuals as Rilke, Lord
Byron, Alexandre Dumas, Guatavo Doré, Campoamor, Julio
Romero de Torres or Vicente Alexandre all stayed there at
one time or another.
A
new village with a remote past
The origins of the town date back to the 19th century, when
it seceded from Casarabonela after the signing of 1821. According
to documentation that was found, there was only one house
in this area, known as the Cortijo de las Aguas Hediondas
(Farm of the Stinking Waters). However, the different baths
found at the edge of the spring, the tombs and ceramic remains
found in different areas of the village prove that it was
inhabited in Roman times, although for some unknown reason
it was abandoned and then mysteriously covered with thick
holm oak groves. The best proof of this are the copper and
silver coins found in the La Glorieta site, with the faces
of Tiberius, Claudius and Caesar, as well as the necropolis
of Los Maderos, close to the Las Cañas stream. Other
remains, this time prehistorical, recently appeared in a 40
metre deep chasm, among which are a Neolithic burial, a cruciform
painting and ceramic with grooved decorations.
Another of the interesting places within the Carratraca town
centre is its unique bullring. The design is polygonal and
it is carved in the rock itself of Sierra Blanquilla. In spring,
the bullring becomes a miniature Jerusalem over Easter thanks
to the villagers. The passion and death of Jesus is represented
there, by more than one hundred actors all of them inhabitants
of the town. Carratraca is a therapeutic village. Its tranquillity
and customs emanate like a spring from each of its houses,
bars and plazas, exercising a curative spell over the visitor
that stop there.
Basic
data
Size: 21 Km²
Population: 860
Residents known as: Carratraqueños
Monuments: Town Hall, Plaza de Toros, Spa, Church of Nuestra
Señora de La Salud
Geographical situation: In the Guadalteba area, at the northern
limits with the Guadalhorce Valley, 65 kilometres from Malaga
at 540 metres above sea level.
Tourist information: Town Hall, C/ Glorieta, 2. 29551.
Phone: 952 458 016 Fax: 952 458 276 Places
to be visited Town Hall
The Town Hall building is situated in the north-east of the
town, in calle de la Glorieta, which is between the Spa and
the Plaza de Toros. It is known locally as the Arab House,
for its Mudejar style, although it dates from no further back
than 1885, when Doña Trinidad Grund de Heredia had
it built. It was originally a second home for her and her
upper-class Malaga family. It has a tower integrated into
the building that leads on to a garden area. The tower fell
down in 1963, and the building was restored in 1991, a new
tower being built and the gardens being restored. The ground
floor is now devoted to exhibitions and the Town Hall has
the middle floor, while the third floor is offices and store-rooms. Plaza de Toros
The bullring is situated to the north-east of the town, on
the side of the Sierra Blanquilla or Baños, the easiest
access to it being by calle de la Glorieta. Before it was
built in 1878, bull-fights were held in the town’s main plaza,
but with the large influx of visitors to the Spa and the town
itself, this was considered dangerous and a proper bullring
was built. It holds 3,000 spectators, and has surprisingly
effective acoustics. Many famous bullfighters have performed
there, and in our own day it is the scene of minor bullfights
during the August Feria. It is also used to host festival
events like the "Embrujo de Luna Mora" (Bewitchment
of the Moorish Moon) and the theatrical representation of
the Passion of Christ during the Holy Week celebrations. Tourist
Routes
The improvement in roads in the area allows us easy access
to neighbouring towns like Pizarra, from where we can continue
on to Casarabonela. Another route, the Ruta de los Pantanos,
takes us to Ardales and Álora, where we can see the
splendour of the lakes and many monuments of great artistic
and historic interest.
FIESTAS
One of the most traditional festivals in Carratraca is the
Passion and Death of Christ, in which more than 100 people
from the town act. It takes place in the bullring on Good
Friday and Easter Saturday, at five in the afternoon. The
Corpus Christi festival is also very popular, with the streets
and houses of the town decorated in flowers and aromatic herbs
in preparation for the procession through the town centre.
A recently recuperated tradition is the Night of San Juan,
at the end of June, when a huge bonfire is built. The August
feria takes place around the Day of the patron saint, Nuestra
Señora de la Salud, on August 15th.
GASTRONOMY
The most typical dishes in Carratraca are the soups and stews
like callos (pigs’ trotters and snouts), the cabbage dishes
and the delicious rabbit dishes. In summertime the people
of the place like to eat something lighter like omelettes
with bread crumbs and parsley, garlic and eggs, and potatoes
and almond. The tarts cooked in olive oil and sponge cake
are very good here too.