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Sierra de Grazalema
THIS
EXUBERANT MASSIF, HALFWAY BETWEEN CADIZ AND MALAGA, IS THE
PLACE WITH THE HIGHEST RAINFALL OF THE IBERIAN PENINSULA.
THIS SURPRISING QUALITY EXPLAINS THE EXTREME NATURAL VALUE
OF THIS AREA, DECLARED WORLD BIOSPHERE RESERVE BY THE UNESCO.
Rain.
As miraculous as it is unpredictable. An invaluable wealth,
a gift from heaven which, in the South of Spain, is offered
by Nature with an irrational stinginess. In Andalusia it was
always scarce, except here, in the extraordinary (in every
aspect) Sierra de Grazalema. Because this is the area of the
Iberian Peninsula that has the largest volume of rain per
year: an average 2.200 l/m2. Here,
in this incredible area of 52.000 Hectares, water pours down
with a force and speed that could almost be considered a monsoon.
This explains its uneven landscape, embroidered with canyons,
caves, gorges, valleys, cornices and slopes. Its soluble power
was the cause of this slow geographical violence. Millions
of years of persistent wear have created a generous habitat,
an almost unbelievable (given the proximity of man) refuge
for animals and plants. Grazalema, at the few intact forests
that remain in Spain, one of the last protected reserves of
the European Continent. In spite of the fact that it may seem
that this mountain range forms a sort of climatic island (the
driest area of Spain, the Tabernas desert in Almeria, is only
some 300 kilometres away), it contains features that are characteristic
of its Mediterranean enviroment, with thirsty summers and
rainy winters.
One would wonder then what circumstances converge to make
this area, and no other, the stormiest area of the country.
The reason is to be found in its location. As it rises right
between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, it becomes the
first geological wall where the moist and warm winds of the
Gulf of Cádiz beat.
Brusquely, they rise to 1.600 metres, which causes condensation
of vapour and, thus, the formation of large cloud masses.
Land
ahead
For a long time, the Sierra de Grazalema was a great physical
and sentimental part of sailors' lives, as it was the last
place in Spain that they saw on their way to America, and
the first on their way back. Thirteen
villages are contained within this natural park. In the province
of Cádiz: Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Villaluenga
del Rosario, Benaocaz, Ubrique, El Bosque, Prado del Rey,
El Gastor and in Málaga: Benaoján, Montejaque,
Cortes de la Frontera, Jimena de Libar and Ronda. Most of
them share a common feature: whitewash. White specks perched
on the boulders, among intense greens and greys. One of the
most appreciated legacies is the mass of trees: holm oaks,
cork oaks, gall oaks and above all, the Spanish fir, a botanical
relic from the Tertiary age that can only be found in the
South of the Peninsula.
The most impresive aspect are the gorges and caves, such as
Gaganta Verde, with a drop of over 400 metres, or the Hundidero-Gato
cave, with five kilometres of galleries and subterranean rivers.
Or its fauna, made up of eagles, buzzards, goshawks, hawks,
deer, boars or otters.
Back
in the "civilisation", we must point out the cultural
richness of these villages: their excellent and varied gastronomy,
their special celebrations or their ancestral crafts, materialised
in the manufacturing of blankets, esparto utensils and leatherwork.
The
Sierra de Grazalema is the Spanish capital of rainfall. The
small empire of showers, the eldest daughter of the downpour,
whose virginity is defended so that it is not abused as in
so many other places. Chastity without affectation, where
man and nature live in peace without bothering each other,
in order to ensure a future of neighbourly co-habitation in
this mistreated and blue biosphere called Earth.